Install a Ceramic Tile Backsplash

Before tiling, check the soundness of the wall:

• Make sure the wall is dry and that it's firm enough to hold the tile weight. If condensation is evident, wait for the area to dry before tiling. You can speed up drying with a dehumidifier. If the area isn't dry, the tile will seal in moisture and cause the wood in the wall to rot. If you have damaged drywall, be sure to repair it.



• Before you choose the layout of the backsplash, prepare the walls for tiling.

Good idea: It's always a good idea to have spare tiles of the same dye lot in case you break some or have to replace one in the future. If you can't get the same dye lot, mix all of the tiles together so the color difference won't be as noticeable.

First, decide how far up the wall the backsplash should extend. Usually, a backsplash extends at least 4" up from the countertop and sometimes all the way up to the bottom of the wall cabinets.

Measure the length and width of the backsplash area. Determine the square footage by multiplying the length times the width. Wall tiles are typically available in 4 1/4" to 6" squares. A standard 4' x 1' backsplash requires at least twenty 6" tiles.

If your countertop is tiled, plan the layout so the backsplash grout veins line up with the countertop grout veins. If you don't have a tiled countertop, start the first tile in the center of the base of the backsplash.

1. Turn off the power to electrical outlets in the area where you are working. Remove electrical outlet covers.



2. Clean the area with warm water and allow to dry.



3. Apply the manufacturer's recommended adhesive with a notched trowel. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle and spread a thin (approx. 1/16") layer. Be sure to work in small 3' x 3' areas to prevent the adhesive from drying out.



4. Lay the first tile in the center at the base of the backsplash. Position the tile using a slight twisting motion. Use a level to make sure the tile is square. Place a spacer on each corner of the first tile. Cut one end of the spacers off in order to fit them between the countertop and the bottom of the tile. Push the spacers into the adhesive.
   
   




5. Good idea: If you have to cut tile, mark the proposed cut on the glazed side of the tile corners. Don't mark on the clay side. The ink can be absorbed and bleed through to the other side.

   Working out from the first tile, continue laying the tiles in a row, flush to the spacers. Wipe off any excess adhesive that oozes up between the tiles. Leave enough space to fill in with grout. Occasionally check to make sure the tiles are level. After one row is complete, begin with the next row and follow the same pattern. Apply adhesive as needed.



6. If you need to cut tiles, score the tile with a tile cutter. Be careful not to score the area of the tile that will show. Use tile nippers or a saw to cut away the area carefully.



7. When you place the tiles around an outlet, be sure that the outlet cover hides the tile edges. Continue tiling as usual.



8. When you have laid all the tiles, wipe off any excess adhesive with a damp cloth. Use a rounded stick to clean between the tiles.



9. Allow the adhesive to set according to the manufacturer's instructions. After the adhesive sets, remove the spacers.



10. Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Since grout may irritate eyes and skin, wear safety goggles and latex gloves. Apply the grout using a rubber float. Spread the grout diagonally at a 45° angle across the tiles, packing the grout between the tiles. Wipe off the excess grout with a damp sponge when the grout becomes firm.



11. Shape the grout joints using a rounded stick. Clean the tiles again and smooth joints with a damp sponge.



12. After the grout dries and a haze forms, wipe off the tiles and shine them with a clean cloth.



13. Replace the electrical outlets and switches. You will need longer screws to replace the outlets covers. Use a 1-1/4" to 1-5/8" screws with plastic washers behind the outlet to bring the outlet out flush with the tile.