Care for Houseplants

If you haven't purchased a plant yet, choose a healthy plant to begin with:

• Look for a plant that's bushy, with buds or new growth. Avoid plants that are "leggy," (a term used to describe plants that are too tall and thin).
• Avoid plants with brown edges on the leaves, which could mean the plant has been subjected to too much heat or fertilizer.
• Beware of pale or yellow lower leaves, a sign of improper watering.
• When you get home, do not be surprised if some lower leaves drop off. The plant may simply be adjusting to its new environment.

Some of the best houseplants for beginners include: Cast Iron Plant, Chinese Evergreen, Dracaena, Kentia Palm, Philodendron, Snake Plant, African Violet, Dumb Cane, Ficus, Fishtail Palm, Lady Palm, Peperomia, Pothos, Rubber Plant, Schefflera, Spider Plant, Aloe, Cactus, Croton, Ponytail Palm.

Without light, a plant will starve, unable to produce food though photosynthesize. (Plant photosynthesis is also the process that removes carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, replacing it with oxygen). So, the placement of your plants in the home is critical. A home will contain many microclimates; for example kitchens and baths normally are more humid. Plants do not have to reside on a windowsill, but if yours do, here are some enlightening facts.

Remember that windows facing:

• North - receive no direct sun, but supply good light for foliage plants. Providing extra light in winter might be in order.
• South - are the brightest and may be too bright in summer.
• East - get the "cooler" morning sun, which is excellent for growing.
• West - receive a lot of sun, also excellent for growing. However, plants may need some relief from intense sunlight.

More Light Facts

As stated above, most plants do their growing at night. Just as plants need light to produce food, they also need a daily period of cool and dark to prosper. Temperature needs vary by plant, but on average, houseplants enjoy temperatures ranging from 65° to 80° F during the day and 55° to 65° F at night. Today, most homeowners tend to maintain a constant temperature, averaging around 70° F. Most plants will adapt to this temperature, but some flowering plants cannot set new flowers without cool evenings.

As always, read the plant label for its specific requirements.

• Do not let leaves touch windowpanes, especially if your winters are cold.
• Plants need circulation but do not respond well to drafts.
• Pollution from smoke, gas, kerosene, even ripe apples (which create ethylene gas) can affect plants.

Overwatering is the most common cause of plant death. Roots need air as well as water. Soil that is too wet will begin to smell, the roots will rot, and diseases will find a home in the wet environment.

When to Water
Some plants need constant moisture; some prefer a much drier environment. The good old standby test is to stick your finger into the soil to a depth of 1 — 1 1/2 inches midway between the rim of the pot and the base of the plant. If the soil feels dry, then it’s time to water. In most cases, watering should be done in the morning. As you've probably heard, plants don't like to go to bed with wet feet.

How to Water
Water must reach all of the root system to be beneficial, so when you water, do it generously rather than a little every day. Always read the plant tag for specific instructions. Water around the base of the plant, not over the flowers or foliage. Use room temperature or tepid (around 90° F) water. When water begins to flow from the drainage hole, stop. Pour off the excess water from the saucer. If the water comes out of the drain hole immediately, the plant may be completely dried out.

Providing Humidity
Homes are generally dry. Additional moisture can be provided by grouping plants or placing in a tray on a layer of damp pebbles. Smooth-leaved plants can be misted or washed. Do not spray or wash a hairy-leaved plant (such as an African violet).

The growing medium is an important aspect of plant care. Your best bet is to buy prepackaged soils. Soil from your garden could contain fungi, bacteria, insect eggs, weed seeds or undesirable elements that you wouldn't want to bring into your house.

The most common types of bagged soil include:

Potting mix - the best choice for potting or repotting. Potting mix should contain organic matter, as well as elements for aeration and moisture retention (perlite and vermiculite). Charcoal may also be an ingredient.

Professional grower's mix - also known as greenhouse mix. Because of its fine texture, it is very good for starting seeds. But for the same reason, it will also dry out very quickly.

Planting mix - contains compost and sand and is recommended for outdoor use, not houseplants.

Topsoil - is basically compost. Because of the rough texture, it's best to use in the yard, not as a potting soil.

Flowering plant mix - contains more acid to promote flowers, otherwise similar to potting mix.

Cactus mix - absorbs water easily, and then dries quickly. Use with cacti and succulents.

A houseplant's root system is limited by the boundaries of its container and cannot go in search of food as an outdoor plant will. For that reason, feeding is necessary for a healthy plant. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main nutrients contained in most plant foods.

Fertilize houseplants during their growing (not dormant) season. Too much fertilizer can damage a plant. Specific needs will depend on several factors - the plant itself, the amount of light it requires, whether it is a flowering or foliage plant. In general, plants that require more light will require more frequent feeding. Above all, read the label on the plant food and follow the instructions and precautions.

Feeding "Don'ts"

Within a plant's lifetime, it may become necessary to move it to a bigger container. A few plants need to be slightly rootbound in order to prosper, but most plants need additional space as they mature. Repotting is essential to allow root growth.

When the time comes to repot, you may see some of the following signals:

• New leaves developing smaller than established leaves.
• The plant wilting between normal watering or the leaves turning yellow.
• Roots are visible on the soil surface or coming from the drainage holes.
  

Summer

Once nighttime temperatures are higher than 50° F and you're past your region's last frost date, it should be safe to move your plants outdoors. Due to the sudden change in environment, shelter from sun and wind is very important. Gradually acclimate your plants by giving them increasing amounts of sunshine over a couple of weeks.

In the event of an extended heat wave or an uncommon cold snap, be prepared to provide some additional, temporary shelter in a garage.

Feeding and watering needs will change outdoors. Many plants develop new growth more rapidly than they do indoors. Increase the frequency of fertilizing and watering to account for this new vigor. When indoor plants have been moved outdoors for the summer, roots may grow through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot. If the pots are sitting directly on the ground, give them a twist occasionally to loosen roots that have attached to the ground.

Winter

When the season starts to wind down and fall grows near, check the plants carefully before bringing them back inside. Don't wait until the first frost warning and scramble to get them relocated. Pests may have set up summer homes in your plants. Start looking for telltale signs (webs, scales, etc.) a few weeks before the move will take place. This gives you time to identify any problems and treat them accordingly.

A good spray from a garden hose should dislodge most insects that have taken up temporary residence. Check the sides and bottom of the pot as well - including the drainage hole (a great hiding place for bugs).

When it's time to bring plants back in, simply reverse the acclimatization process, giving them a reduced amount of sunlight each day. Prune excess growth or damaged areas. Clean the outside of the pots. Reduce water and fertilizer and resume general houseplant care.

Many flowering plants, such as cyclamen and gloxinia, have a resting period or dormant stage. Some may simply stop growing during this period, while others may wilt and lose foliage. In fact, some plants have been discarded as dead during dormancy. Dormant plants don't need as much water or fertilizer. While winter is the most common dormant period for plants, check for detailed information on your house plant.

In spite of their diversity, indoor plants are pretty durable and forgiving. House plants can live for many years, giving us the benefits of their beauty and a healthier indoor environment. All that's required is a little attention. Just remember that plants and their individual needs vary. Read your plant tag and know your plant.

Watch our Gardening Basics video: How Do I Keep My Indoor Plants Alive?