Install a Mirrored Medicine Cabinet and Vanity Light

As you near the bottom of the mirror, have someone hold the top so it doesn’t fall.

When the mirror is off, you’ll need to repair the drywall. Scrape away any adhesive residue on the drywall using a putty knife. With a utility knife, score a circle only through the drywall paper around the damaged area and peel off loose drywall paper within the circle. This eliminates any leftover adhesive and paper that might have pulled loose from the gypsum underneath. Also, it helps the completed patch blend with the surrounding area.

Sand around the scored area. Quickly brush on a light coat of primer over the damage, let dry, and sand smooth. Avoid saturating the area over the exposed gypsum.

Apply evenly spaced spirals of mirror adhesive around the back of the mirror according to the manufacturer's directions. Avoid using general-purpose construction adhesive to hang a mirror. You need a formula that won't weaken or dissolve the reflective coating on the back.

Place the mirror in position starting at the bottom, tilt the top up against the wall, and press gently but evenly around the mirror. You might want a helper to assist you. Use painter’s tape at the top of the mirror to hold it in place while the adhesive dries.

Once the adhesive dries, remove the board and patch the holes. Sand smooth, prime, and paint.

Remove the screws from the cleat or clips on the wall.

If necessary, patch any drywall damage. Sand smooth, prime, and paint.

Set the mirror aside and mark where to hang the cleat on the wall.

Drill the holes. For holes not in line with studs, use wall anchors. Then hang the cleat with screws. Hang the mirror and make any adjustments if necessary.

If necessary, patch any drywall damage. Sand smooth, prime, and paint.

Cut a piece of drywall to fit the hole. Attach it to the framing with drywall screws.

Sand any rough edges along the seams.

Next apply joint compound and drywall tape following the manufacturer’s directions. Typically, you’ll apply a thin layer of joint compound, then tape, and let dry. Sand it smooth, apply another layer of compound—feathered beyond the edges of the previous layer—and let dry. Sand again. If necessary, apply a third layer of compound, let it dry, and sand smooth. Next, apply a coat of primer to the patch. Now you're ready to paint the patched area and the rest of the wall.

You’ll need to make sure plumbing or electrical will not be in the way. To do that, first locate the studs with a stud finder and mark them. Next drive a screw partway into the wall inside the outlined area and beyond a stud. Cut a small hole around the screw and pull it to remove the piece of wall. Use a flashlight to look inside the wall to see if there is any electrical or plumbing. If there is, you may want to call a professional to reroute them.

Next cut along the outline. Cut any studs in the area too, but keep in mind the wall on the other side. A reciprocating saw or hand saw works well for this job.

The wall from the other room will most likely be attached to the studs with screws. Use a mini-hacksaw to cut the drywall screws on the backside of the stud if necessary. Now you can remove the stud.

Now just patch the screw heads with joint compound, let it dry, and sand smooth.

If necessary, prime and paint.  Now you’re ready for the cabinet.

Set the cabinet inside the hole. Make sure the door is able to open freely and will not be pinched against the wall. Mark the mounting holes on the sides, remove the cabinet, and drill pilot holes at the marks.

Set the cabinet back in the hole and secure it with screws. Add the shelves.

Remove the mounting screws.