How to Paint Furniture

If the surfaces have an existing finish that’s already smooth, sand them with a 220-grit sanding sponge and wipe them clean with a moist cloth. For slightly rough surfaces, sand with 180-grit and 220-grit sanding sponges and then wipe clean.

Use painters tape to mask off any areas you don’t want to paint, such as drawer boxes, the interior of the cabinet, or hardware and hinges you can’t easily remove.

• If the piece of wood furniture is already stained, then you'll need a stain-blocking primer.
• If the furniture already has dark paint on it, it requires a high-hiding primer.
• For bare wood, a multi-purpose primer will suffice.

For more information about selecting the right primer for your project, read our Primer Buying Guide.

To apply the primer, brush in the direction of the grain to apply a thin coat and let it dry. An angled sash brush is handy for reaching into corners. Sand the primed surface with a 220-grit sanding sponge and wipe clean. Apply a second coat of primer, if necessary, to ensure a smooth base for your paint.

Check the surfaces for smoothness and fill any additional flaws or damage as needed. Sand smooth, prime and let dry.

Shine a portable and adjustable light at an angle on the surfaces you’ll paint. Angled lighting throws shadows that help you find surface imperfections, runs or drips.

Plan your painting steps. If the item is small enough, consider tilting it on its side or end to paint surfaces one at a time while they’re horizontal.

When you're painting a piece of wood furniture, cabinet and furniture paint is recommended. It requires little prep work and stands up to daily use, drying to a smooth finish. It's also fade-, scratch-, and scuff resistant.

Use a synthetic-bristle brush for latex paint or water-based stains and a natural-bristle brush for oil-based paint or oil-based stains. For flat surfaces, apply the paint using a 4-inch foam roller, taking care to avoid drips around the edges. If you mix brushes and rollers, check that the surfaces will look the same after the paint levels and dries by inspecting your work in the angled light as you go.

After the first coat dries, check the surface for drips and runs. If you find one after the paint has dried thoroughly, carefully sand it off. If you see paint collect on your sandpaper, stop immediately to keep paint from scratching the surface. Another technique is to lay a utility knife blade flat on the painted surface near the dried bump in the paint. Carefully tilt it until the edge shaves off the bump without damaging the surrounding paint. Then add another thin coat to conceal the repairs.

To protect the finish, spray a light coat of clear sealer over the entire surface. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.

If the furniture is unfinished or you want to glaze over an old finish, apply a base coat of paint and wait for it to dry completely before glazing.

Work on small sections at a time (a cabinet door or the leg of a table, for instance). Apply a small amount of glaze to the furniture with a clean brush or cloth. Then work it into the grain, corners and crevices. Try to blend the glaze so that you don’t end up with streaks. Use a squirt bottle filled with water and mist the glazed portion to wet it a little.

Begin wiping off the excess glaze with a clean cloth, smoothing out any circular marks as you move across the furniture. Depending on the antique look you want to achieve, leave on as much or as little glaze as you want.

Continue applying glaze and wiping off the excess until you finish glazing the entire piece of furniture.

To protect the antique finish, spray a light coat of clear sealer over the entire surface. Let it dry for at least 24 hours.