How to Build a Fence: DIY Wood Privacy Fence Plans

Use stakes or marking paint. Typical spacing is between 6 feet and 8 feet on center (from the center of one post to the center of the next). Keep your tape measure level for accurate spacing.

The strings mark the outside faces of the posts. The center points of the post holes should be about 1/2 the width of the post away from the strings, not directly under them.

After establishing the post hole locations, use a pencil to mark the positions of the string on the batter boards. For batter boards next to the house, transfer the string locations to the house in case you need to remove the batter board to dig. Remove the strings to make digging holes easier. You’ll reattach them before you set the posts.

Fill the bottom of the first hole with about 6 inches of dry concrete mix. Set a post on the dry concrete, flush against the layout line, but without pushing it outward. Use a post level to make sure the post is plumb and then add braces to hold it in place. Follow the same steps to set the rest of your posts.

Add concrete mix to the post holes. You can choose between regular-set and fast-set options. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing.

• If using regular-set concrete, as with this fence, mix it to the consistency of thick cake batter. Fill around each post (image to the right). Leave the concrete a few inches below ground level. Slope it away from the post to help with water runoff.
• If using fast-set concrete, pour the dry mix around each post to a few inches below ground level and add water. The water will sit on top at first and eventually work its way to the bottom. Use a stake to mix it if needed but don't overwork it.

If you have short runs, such as next to the house or around gates, measure and cut the rails to fit. Size them a bit long and attach to the outside faces of the posts with two screws at each post. If you're working next to the house, make sure the rails extend to the house so the pickets will provide full coverage. Trim the other rail ends flush with the posts.

Stagger the rail joints on different posts to add stability. For example, with posts spaced about 8 feet apart, use 16-foot boards as the top and bottom rail to span three posts. For the middle rail, use an 8-foot board across two posts.

Rails running along the fence should butt together at the middle of the posts. At the end of a run, install the rails flush with the edge of the corner post. The rails for the next run should overlap these rail ends and be flush with the rail faces.

As you reach the end of your fence, cut the final rails to fit as needed. Remember to let the rails extend all the way to the house.

At your gate posts, cut 2 by 4s to fit between the rails. Secure the boards to the posts with screws. When you install the gate, you'll fasten the hinges to these support boards.

A spacer will simplify the installation of the remaining pickets. Attach a short 2-inch-by-4-inch block of wood to the back of a longer, straight 2-inch-by-4-inch board. Hang the spacer on the top rail, against a corner picket. Install the next picket flush against the spacer to get the proper 3-1/2-inch spacing and to keep the picket plumb.

Continue installing pickets along the run, spacing them 3-1/2 inches apart. Periodically use a level to make sure the pickets are plumb.

After you finish installing the outside pickets, begin installing the pickets on the inside of the fence. Overlap the outside pickets by 1 inch on each side. Plumb the first picket in a run with a level and position it at the correct height. On slopes, be sure to split the difference in height of the adjacent outside pickets.

Continue installing pickets, using your spacer periodically to check for plumb. Use string or a 2-inch-by-4-inch board as you did on the outside pickets to maintain the correct height. If the ground is too sloped or uneven, use a short 2-inch-by-4-inch board across the top of the pickets as a guide.

Use a jigsaw to cut the pickets to fit around posts as needed. On short runs, rip-cut the pickets as necessary.

Construct the frame with screws. Depending on the hardware, you may need to make small miter cuts at the corners of the gate rails to allow for welds.

Measure and cut a middle rail to run between the vertical gate rails. Install with screws.

Hold the frame in place and mark the holes for hinges. Drill pilot holes in the support board and attach the gate with screws. Don't attach the hinges to the end grain of the fence rails.

Install the post-side portion of the latch to the appropriate post or board. Don't secure it to the end of the fence rail. Line up the gate-side elements and attach them to the gate with screws.

Use a string attached to the adjacent fence runs as a guide to position the pickets.