DIY Accent Wall Ideas

Set a table saw to cut the MDF panels to the appropriate sizes. For this design, we cut: 

• 20-inch-by-20-inch large squares 
• 4-inch-by-4-inch small squares 
• 20-inch-by-4-inch strips 

Check your plan and layout. You’ll also likely need to cut some partial strips and partial squares to fit at the top and bottom of the wall.

Position the large squares along the chalk lines and attach them using a nailer. For larger, heavier squares, you may also want to apply construction adhesive to the back of the wood before positioning and securing them with nails. Next, fill in the design with the wood strips and finally with the smaller squares.

Fill the nail holes with paintable caulk and then paint the wall and design. You could paint by hand, but since the design is somewhat complex, the work will go much faster with a paint sprayer.

Install two of the long boards. These boards will anchor the rest of the design. Secure them with a nail gun at any distance apart that looks good to you. You’ll cut short pieces to fit between these later.

We used 12-inch spacing, but you can adjust the spacing to create a design to your taste. Drawing out your design on a picture or graph paper ahead of time will make this step easier. Based on the distance you choose, cut a spacer to length. This will help you accurately install the remaining long boards.

With 8-foot boards, you’ll need to cut small pieces to fit at the top of the wall. As an alternative, you can use longer boards and cut them to fit.

Attach the remaining long boards, using the spacer to place them correctly. Cut and install smaller pieces to fit between and perpendicular to the first two long boards.

Apply paintable caulk to all the gaps and nail holes. Depending on how well the boards fit the wall, you may need to caulk the edges of the board as well. A caulk applicator tool will help you get a clean bead of caulk along these edges.

Now it’s time to paint. You can use a paint sprayer or paint by hand. Painting by hand gives you the opportunity to create a two-tone look.

Cut the lumber to size to create the wood bricks. We’re using 1-inch-by-3-inch furring strips, which will have a relatively low profile.

A template will help you position the blocks more quickly and accurately. We created a template with a 90-degree angle that’ll give a 1/2-inch mortar or grout gap on each side of the brick.

Install the brick blocks on the wall according to your pattern. Use two nails per brick. You’ll need some partial blocks at the ends of the wall, and you may need some at the top. 

To give the faux bricks individual character, use a rotary tool to add details and defects. See the video for examples and be sure to practice on scrap wood.

Fill in nail holes with paintable, nonsilicone caulk. We used a taping knife to spread the caulk evenly. You can also apply spray-on wall texture to make the blocks look more like brick and to help simulate the look of grout or mortar between the blocks. Just practice first on some scrap wood to get the right look and technique. 

Finally, apply paint generously with a paint sprayer.

Measure and cut the columns to size. Make sure they’re plumb and square with the top and bottom frame pieces. Attach them to the top and bottom of the frame using pocket holes.

Measure and mark the locations of the shelves and shelf pins on the frames and on both sides of each column. A shelf pin template makes the job easier. Drill 1/4-inch holes for the shelf pins. You’ll need two pins at each end of a shelf. Install the pins.

Double-check the measurements between the frame pieces and the columns and between the two columns. Cut the shelves to size. Dry-fit them and adjust as needed.

Install 1-inch-by-2-inch wood strips over the edges of frame uprights and columns. These pieces will cover the joints and give the bookshelf wall a finished look.

For an added touch, add simple, plug-in accent lighting to highlight the books or décor items on your shelves. Install a 6-inch-wide board to function as a header at the top of the wall. Measure and mark the center of each shelf and install mounting hardware for the lights. Bore a 1-inch-diameter hole at each position for the light cords. Bore holes in the columns to run the light cords to an extension cord. If necessary, you can dog-ear (remove a small piece at the corner) the back edge of one set of shelves to allow space for the extension cord.

Remove the shelves, shelf pins, lamps, etc. Caulk nail holes and tape off the wall as needed. Caulk or install wood plugs in the pocket holes. Paint the frame, shelves and wall. Once everything is dry, reinstall the pins, shelves and lights.

Locate the wall studs and use pieces of painters tape to mark the stud locations on the wall. Attach plywood panels to the studs with screws to support the weight of the panels and the wood slices. Stain the plywood with an interior stain. We’re going to paint the slices, so we used an ebony stain to make the colors stand out.

Remove as much of the bark as possible from the wood. Cut the wood into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Sand the edges of the slices as needed.

Use fast-set construction adhesive to attach the slices to the plywood panels, alternating with different sizes as you go. Our design uses roughly a 4-to-1 ratio of large to small pieces.

You can leave the wood a natural color or paint the slices. We used four colors to make a mosaic pattern. Create your own palette or use color collections to easily find different colors that work well together.

Apply the material to the wall, working in small sections. A few mistakes are fine. You can sand some out or leave some to accentuate the handmade look. If you need more working time, use a spray bottle and water to keep the material from drying. If you’re using a trowel, apply the compound lightly to avoid scuffing the drywall. You may want to try a pulling motion rather than a pushing motion. Once you’ve spread the material, take care of any spot repairs.

A frame will help give you clean edges. Use a 1-inch-by-2-inch trim to frame the wall. Cut the wood to size. You may want to paint it before you install it. Install with finishing nails and a hammer. Use a nail set or nail punch to countersink the nails. You may need to use multiple pieces that fit together. A scarf joint will let you fit the pieces together cleanly and will be easy to hide. See the video to learn how to create this simple joint. Apply wood glue at the joints to reinforce them.

Allow the texture to fully dry according to the instructions. Paint with a thick-nap roller.

Plan the size of the frames and the spacing between the frames. This will help you make sure you get the look you want and will determine how many pieces of moulding you’ll need to cut. Mapping it out on graph paper is a good idea. For our wall, we planned for five frames across the wall, each about 2 feet wide.

To create the frames, cut the wood to size, trimming the ends to 45-degree angles. Use consistent cuts to ensure the pieces fit together as tightly as possible.

Create a template to provide the right spacing above and below the chair rail. Use the template to mark the locations of the frames and to set the spacing between the frames.

Attach the outer frames to the wall with a nailer and finishing nails, using a square and a level to make sure the frames are the correct shape. Set the nailer depth so the fasteners sit just below the surface of the material.

Decide on the spacing for the inner frames. We used about a 1-inch gap. Create a template to mark the walls with the correct spacing for the inner frames and install, checking for level and square as you go.

Cut raised panels from MDF with the same 1/2-inch thickness as the moulding. We sized them to fit with a 1-inch gap inside the inner frames. You can use a table saw or circular saw. Bevel the edges of the panels to match the moulding.

Use your template to mark the locations for the raised panels and install them with nails. For larger panels, it’s a good idea to also apply construction adhesive to the backs of the panels before securing them with nails.

Sand the joints and edges as needed. Apply sandable, paintable caulk to the nail holes and any gaps or areas where the wood isn’t flush with the wall. Prime and paint.