Tools and Materials
Tools
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About Solid Hardwood Flooring
Solid hardwood flooring has a rich, attractive appearance that adds value and style to your home. It's often installed in the living room, kitchen, bedroom or dining room. There are different types of solid hardwood flooring, including 3/4-inch solid and 5/16-inch solid. Which you choose depends on where you’ll be installing the floor. You should only install 3/4-inch solid hardwood on a plywood subfloor at or above ground level. If you have a concrete subfloor at ground level, 5/16-inch hardwood flooring installation will work.
When buying hardwood flooring, carefully consider whether or not your manufacturer offers a warranty. A lifetime warranty, as defined by the manufacturer, is key when shopping for a solid hardwood floor.
Tips for Installing Hardwood Floors
Before you install wood flooring, read through these tips to help make your project as smooth as possible. Keep in mind, hardwood flooring installation can vary by project and the flooring you’re using, so always follow the instructions for the hardwood you’re working with.
- Wood floor installation requires a level subfloor and that your hardwood flooring is acclimated to the room’s humidity and temperature according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. You’ll also need to remove the baseboards. To learn how to get a room ready for new hardwood flooring, see our articles on prepping a plywood subfloor or prepping a concrete subfloor for new flooring.
- In most cases, you’ll want to start laying hardwood floors from the straightest, longest wall. Install the flooring perpendicular to the floor joists to give your floor the most strength. You can mark where the floor joists are on the wall.
- Make sure you have the right amount of flooring for your project. Since hardwood is sold in full case quantities, a good general rule is to round up your order. You can use our wood flooring calculator to help get an estimate.
- Use an underlayment or moisture barrier to cover the floor before adding the hardwood. These offer benefits including sound dampening and protection against spills.
- It’s important to install solid hardwood floors at or above ground level.
- To make the process easier, come up with a plan on how to lay the boards to fit the size and shape of your room. Use boards from several different cases and lay them out in the room. Once you’ve seen how they need to be placed, set them out in the order that they’ll be installed.
- Stagger the end joints. This creates an offset from the end of the board in the previous row, improving aesthetics and floor stability.
- If you’re installing the floors yourself, wear protective gear. Gloves, knee pads and safety glasses can help keep you safe and comfortable while you work. Use safety glasses and a respirator when cutting the flooring.
- If you’re not sure you’re up for the challenge of a do-it-yourself install, Lowe’s has professional independent installers that can do the job for you.
You can't use a glue-down installation method with 3/4-inch solid hardwood flooring or if you’re working on a plywood subfloor. The glue down method works best for 5/16-inch solid hardwood installed on a concrete surface. Please refer to the manufacturer’s installation instructions for planks 5 inches or wider.
Getting Started
There are four different installation types for hardwood flooring: nail-down, interlocking, glue-down and staple-down.
- Nail-Down Installation Method: This is the most common choice for solid wood flooring installation due to its cost-effectiveness. Because of the way nails are driven into the boards, they’re nearly invisible once the project is complete. A wood subfloor is required for this type of installation.
- Interlocking Installation Method: Also known as click-lock installation, this is great for DIY installation. The boards simply click into place, quickly creating a new floor.
- Glue-Down Installation Method: This method works great if you’re installing hardwood on a concrete floor, where the glue will easily bond to the surface.
- Staple-Down Installation Method: Similar to the nail-down method, it uses staples to secure boards to the subfloor. Stapling offers a strong initial hold because of the staple’s two-pronged design — but may not be as forgiving as nails with movement as flooring expands and contracts. As with nails, it requires a wood subfloor.
Learn how to install wood flooring for each type by following the instructions below.
Nail-Down Installation Method
Step 1: Prepare the Area
For your first row, you’ll want the straightest planks, arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand from heat and humidity. Predrill nail holes 1/4 inch from the narrow side of the plank at 1/2 inch from the wall. Continue at 6-inch intervals for the length of each board.
Mix boards from each box of flooring to ensure the finished product has a blended color and finish without patchiness.
Step 2: Countersink the Nails
Because the pneumatic nailer is hard to maneuver near the wall, face-nail the first few boards in place. Countersink the nails with a nail punch and fill the remaining hole with matching putty. Then blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue. Make sure to countersink the nail so it doesn't interfere with the board-to-board connection.
Blind-nailing is a method of concealing a nail using the adjacent installed board. For tongue-and-groove flooring, drive a nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue, then conceal it by engaging the groove of the next board. Be sure to countersink the nail — drive it slightly below the surface of the wood — to prevent interference in the joint.
Step 3: Fit and Lock the Boards
On the second row, lock the tongue and groove, and tap them together with a mallet and block for a tight fit between the boards. Stagger the ends of adjoining boards by at least 6 inches, cutting the end board if needed to create a stronger, more attractive flooring pattern.
Step 4: Use a Flooring Nailer
Blind-nail the second row through the tongue and repeat the process until you’re able to use the flooring nailer. The flooring nailer requires room to work, so it typically can't be used until two to four rows have been installed. When using a flooring nailer, be sure to install the nailer's protective boot to protect the flooring.
As you move forward along the floor, maintain the expansion gap on each end of the room.
Step 5: Finish Hardwood Floor Installation
When you get to the last few rows, switch back to nailing by hand. On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from the wall to the board — not the tongue — minus the expansion gap.
If the final piece is 1 inch wide or less, apply a small amount of wood glue to the tongue and groove. Then insert the piece with a pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to protect the wall. If the final piece is larger than 1 inch wide, face-nail the piece, countersink and fill the hole with matching putty.
Step 6: Install the Transition Pieces
Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions and remove the spacers. Cut the underlayment and reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to the wall, not the floor.
Interlocking Installation Method
Step 1: Prepare the Area
For your first row, you’ll want the straightest planks, arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand from heat and humidity. Predrill nail holes 1/4 inch from the narrow side of the plank at 1/2 inch from the wall. Continue at 6-inch intervals for the length of each board.
For this installation type, you’ll only need nails for the first row of boards.
Step 2: Countersink the Nails
Face-nail the first few boards in place. Countersink the nails with a nail punch and fill the remaining hole with matching putty. Then blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue. Make sure to countersink the nail so it doesn't interfere with the board-to-board connection.
Blind-nailing is a method of concealing a nail using the adjacent installed board. For tongue-and-groove flooring, drive a nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue, then conceal it by engaging the groove of the next board. Be sure to countersink the nail — drive it slightly below the surface of the wood — to prevent interference in the joint.
Step 3: Fit and Lock the Boards
On the second row, hold the board at a 30-degree angle and fit the tongue into the groove. It should click into place like a puzzle piece. If needed, gently tap gaps together with a mallet and block to ensure a tight fit between the boards.
As you move forward along the floor, maintain the expansion gap on each end of the room.
Step 4: Finish Hardwood Floor Installation
On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from the wall to the board — not the tongue — minus the expansion gap.
Step 5: Install the Transition Pieces
Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions and remove the spacers. Cut the underlayment and reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to the wall, not the floor.
Glue-Down Installation Method
Step 1: Prepare the Area
Start by spreading the flooring adhesive with a trowel. Only spread enough to install the first few rows at a time to keep the glue from drying before you get to that part of the floor. Then lay the first row, arranging the tongue side of the board facing the center of the room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand from heat and humidity.
The glue-down method is a great choice for installing hardwoods over a concrete floor. This is a good point to remember when you need to know how to install hardwood flooring on concrete. A moisture barrier isn’t typically required for this type of installation; however, if you’d like that extra layer of protection, you can choose an adhesive with a moisture barrier.
Step 2: Fit and Lock the Boards
Add the second row, fitting the groove into the tongue. Tap them together with a mallet and block for a tight fit between the boards. Continue spreading adhesive (only for a few boards at a time), fitting the boards together and using the mallet as needed to tap rows in place to keep them flush against each other. Cut boards as needed to stagger the end joints.
Step 3: Finish Hardwood Floor Installation
On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from the wall to the board — not the tongue — minus the expansion gap. Finish gluing the boards down.
Step 4: Install the Transition Pieces
Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions and remove the spacers. Reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to the wall, not the floor.
Staple-Down Installation Method
Step 1: Prepare the Area
For your first row, you’ll want the straightest planks, arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand from heat and humidity. Even though you’ll be using staples as the primary fastener for installation, you’ll still need to secure the first row with nails. Predrill nail holes 1/4 inch from the narrow side of the plank at 1/2 inch from the wall. Continue at 6-inch intervals for the length of each board.
Mix boards from each box of flooring to ensure the finished product has a blended color and finish without patchiness.
Step 2: Countersink the Nails
Because the pneumatic stapler is hard to maneuver near the wall, face-nail the first few boards in place. Countersink the nails with a nail punch and fill the remaining hole with matching putty. Then blind-nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue. Make sure to countersink the nail so it doesn't interfere with the board-to-board connection.
Blind-nailing is a method of concealing a nail using the adjacent installed board. For tongue-and-groove flooring, drive a nail at a 45-degree angle through the tongue, then conceal it by engaging the groove of the next board. Be sure to countersink the nail — drive it slightly below the surface of the wood — to prevent interference in the joint.
Step 3: Fit and Lock the Boards
On the second row, lock the tongue and groove, and tap them together with a mallet and block for a tight fit between the boards. Stagger the ends of adjoining boards by at least 6 inches, cutting the end board if needed to create a stronger, more attractive flooring pattern.
Step 4: Use a Flooring Nailer
Blind-nail the second row through the tongue and repeat the process until you’re able to use the flooring nailer. The flooring nailer requires room to work, so it typically can't be used until two to four rows have been installed. When using a flooring nailer, be sure to install the nailer's protective boot to protect the flooring.
As you move forward along the floor, maintain the expansion gap on each end of the room.
Step 5: Finish Hardwood Floor Installation
When you get to the last few rows, switch back to nailing by hand. On the last row, cut the pieces to fit, measuring the distance from the wall to the board — not the tongue — minus the expansion gap.
If the final piece is 1 inch wide or less, apply a small amount of wood glue to the tongue and groove. Then insert the piece with a pry bar and a piece of scrap wood to protect the wall. If the final piece is larger than 1 inch wide, face-nail the piece, countersink and fill the hole with matching putty.
Step 6: Install the Transition Pieces
Install the transition pieces according to the manufacturer’s instructions and remove the spacers. Cut the underlayment and reattach the baseboards and shoe molding to the wall, not the floor.
Install the Timeless Beauty of Solid Hardwood
There’s no denying the appeal of solid hardwood flooring. The timeless and elegant look of hardwood enhances any room in your home. It’s easy to care for, can stand up to heavy foot traffic and it has a long lifespan. Solid hardwood flooring is a classic look that never goes out of style. Depending on your skill level and which method you choose, installation can be a great DIY project. However, if you don’t want to challenge your DIY skills or you don’t have the time to DIY and you’d rather leave it to the pros, Lowe’s has you covered. Let our professional flooring installation services do the work for you. Get started on your hardwood flooring project today.